Nestled off the Costa Verde in Rio de Janeiro state, one of last tracts of Atlantic rainforest in the world, the Island of Ilha Grande has seen virtually no development, leaving this paradise island a haven for wildlife, trees and pristine beaches. The 75 sq mile island protected national park (Parque Estadual Da Ilha Grande) was once a prison and has a population of only 3000 people, making this a fantastic getaway from the crowded smog-chocked city, and a must on all Brazil Backpacker’s itinerary. With the exception of the odd Prefeitura, rubbish collector or police vehicle, there are no private cars or real roads on Ilha Grande, so one must walk everywhere. This is made possible through a series of trails numbered T-1 to T-15 and marked on several maps in Vila do Abraão, the main town, and along the trails themselves.
The main arrival point for most boats to Ilha Grande, including the super cheap Ilha Grande ferry service is Vila do Abraão. The town is mainly composed of pousadas, hostels and restaurants, and very little else. This is where most people will stay if visiting Ilha Grande, and the jump point for most boats around the island each morning. There are other places to stay, but these will generally be more upmarket, secluded Hotels.
Highlights of Ilha Grande include the beach of Lopes Mendes, which has been rated as one of the top 10 beaches in the world (which once you’ve seen Lopes Mendes, you will understand why.) There is a mountain if you can call it that, 990m high, called Pico do Papagio, which you can climb up one of the trails, and several boat tours out to an underwater cave (Grata do Acala), Green and blue lagoons and a natural reserve consiting of forest (Reserva Biologica da Pria do Sul) and lagoon itself (Parque Estadual Marinho do Aventureiro).
The are very few drawbacks of travelling to Ilha Grande, with the exception of high prices for meals, water and snacks (as expected on a tropical island) amount of walking and Mosquitoes, which again you might expect which living in the rainforest. The food is generally good and of high standard. A meal for two with a beer each will come in at around 60 Reais average, with some more fancy restaurants and cheaper options available. There is little to do here except sit back relax or go for long walks – making Ilha Grande ideal for lovers but perhaps not that great for big groups of party-loving friends. One guy said to me before I left it is the perfect place to fall in love – which is most certainly true.
Travel Rio to Ilha Grande
To get to Ilha Grande, the only way is by ferry, fast catamaran or private water taxi from the port of Agra dos Reis. Agra dos Reis lies about three-fifths of the way between Rio and Paraty along the Costa Verde, Rio state. Coastal mountains reach 2000m here covered in Atlantic rainforest, or Mata Atlantica of which only 5% remains. IT is therefore a beautiful ride from Rio to Ilha Grande and highly recommended. By bus from Rio, use Costa Verde green buses from the main Novo Rodoviaria. These are inexpensive at 36 Reais each way and very comfortable. They take around 3 hours. You can find a timetable here
See my travelling from Paraty to Ilha Grande page here for more travel info.