After our tropical paradise, we travelled further up the Linha Verde to the final stop – Sitio do Conde. The town had a nice large square with tourist office and good beaches, however we decided we would carry on further up the coast as we found a small comfortable bus in the square to Aracaju, the next big town. This was perhaps a mistake as Aracaju is a real dump, so beware.

Aracaju is a city of 500,000, most of which are dirt poor and clearly criminals. We arrived after dark to find almost every shop boarded up with iron grills around them and few people around. We headed to what was billed as the ‘main street’ in the guide book

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