I arrived in Mumbai this morning; hot, humid, wet, grey, impossibly chaotic Bombay. The air is thick with fumes and the sound of car horns. Sweat almost immediately started dripping from my forehead as I stepped out of the airport. There are people just everywhere. Once through security you are hit with this wall of people touting for your business – from the currency exchange guys inside the airport gesticulating wildly at you, to the young children pawing at you for your ‘english coins’ through the open car window of the taxi.

I met a lovely couple on the plane, Ruth and Simon from Wales, and immediately found something to talk excitedly about. They had just returned from Tanzania and the foothills

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